Posted by Paul on October 02, 2002 at 15:48:48:
OK, last night I decided to take the plunge and remove the spacer. Here is the play by play of what I did and some pitfalls to avoid.
First let me say this, I'm no mechanic, so some of the terms I use could be wrong. Also, this was done to a 2002 Suzuki Savage LS650.
Remove Seat - Two bolts to the rear and underneath main seat.
Remove Tank - Two bolts to remove the front seat latch and unlock the tank from the frame. Rock rear of tank up and back to get it loose from the rubber wheels that secure it up top.
**Note - I was trying to balance the tank where the seat was so I didn't have to remove the gas lines and the speedo cable, big mistake. I ended up bouncing the tank on the ground resulting in my first tank ding :( (Not to mention a harsh disconnect of the lines) I recommend disconnecting the two fuel lines and the speedo cable manually.
Open the Carb - You will see a tin looking rounded cover held on with four bolts. Move the two breather hoses and the electrical box out of your way. After you have the top off, take out the long spring.
**Note - Be careful with the stock screws that are holding the plate on. They are hard to turn and strip easy if you don't get enough downward pressure. I ended up having to use a set of channel-locks to get the last screw in and out. Also, I found that by loosening the two screws that are on either side of the carb that hold locking rings, you can rotate the carb a bit side to side to give you better angles for the removal of the top plate.
Remove the carb middle - Carefully remove the middle of the carb, its a long tube with a rubber gasket around the top.
Remove the small copper plate - Carefully unscrew the two small screws and remove the small copper plate from indide the barrel of the carb. This lets the needle slide out.
Remove the white spacer - Finger pressure did it for me. Again, be careful with those parts.
Reasemble Carb - Put the needle back into the barrel, re-attach the small copper plate with the two small screws. Load the barrel back in to the carb chamber. There is a small tab on the gasket, allign it with the depresion in the top of the carb unit and run your finger along the top to press the seal back into its groove. Replace the long spring and tighten the cover back on.
**Note - I found that by putting the spring into the cap first and then threading it into the barrel it prevents the spring from bending over as you put the top on. If you loosened the screws on the lock rings, rotate the carb back into vertical allignment and re-tighten them.
Replace Tank - Thread the breathing tubes back into the frame and replace the electrical box back on its tab. From higher then the frame, press down and forward on the tank to get the rollers to go back into thier grooves. Re-attach the seat latch and the tank with two bolts. Re-attach the fuel lines and the speedo cable.
Replace seat - Hook the seat under the seat latch on tank and press down in back. Replace two bolts on side.
**Note - Save that white spacer. I have seen threads in this forum where people have reverted it back for one reason or another, so it may come in handy. I put mine in an envelope and put it with my manual.
I turned my fuel pet cock to Prime due to me removing the carb I wanted fuel to pass right through there to get it wet again. She started right up and I flipped it back down to Main. Test road it around with a noticable reduction in back-fires. I still get them occasionally , but no where near the amount from before.
Enjoy and Ride Safe!